Training and working versus just being a dog
As much as Good Work Dog focuses on the work part, being able to “turn it off” is equally important. For one thing, dogs need time to sniff, socialize, roll around, and lay there relaxing, for their overall wellness and quality of life. Wild dogs and cats don’t play or hunt constantly–they do bursts of activity like hunting, followed by lying down and eating, followed by a long nap. In between they may go for a leisurely sniff walk.
Some dogs get really addicted to working and sports, or they obsess about treats and will do anything they can think of for one more cookie. Even playing ball can turn into a manic obsession rather than a functional satisfaction for the dog, and not much fun for you. These dogs can become unpleasantly demanding, and even owners who regularly do good work with them can find themselves frustrated by their dog fussing and never settling down.
One approach that works very well is to add a winding-down and relaxation stage to the end of every training exercise or high-energy playtime. This doesn’t just mean saying “all done” and then walking away and expecting your dog to chill out. That’s the end goal, not the starting point. We first have to guide the dog from energetic activity to calming activity, to de-escalate their nervous system. This helps them be ready to settle down in the short term. With each repetition, the dog becomes conditioned to expect this process, which then makes it much easier for them in the long term. When the dog is truly accustomed to a planned relaxation period after play or work, then they will be much more receptive when you signal “all done”, because they know what to do.
Building the switch
Dogs have very short attention spans, and pushing them too long can make them tune out, disengage, and even resent whatever you’re trying to make them do. Generally speaking the best training is brief, about 2 to 10 minutes at a time, peppering these quick learning sessions throughout the day if you’re able to. First, take a few minutes to set your dog up for success by ensuring the space is safe, the goals of the exercise are clear, and distractions are as controlled as possible. Then work on a specific skill for a few minutes. Then spend a similar short time on a practice that the dog finds calming. Finally give the “all done” cue, and put away your treats and any other gear that you were using.
Some examples of calming activities include:
- Slow sniffing walk, away from other dogs
- Scatter a handful of treats in the grass, let the dog forage
- Really Real Relaxation by Suzanne Clothier
- Massage or deep breathing (ask your trainer how)
- A bully stick or lick mat, for dogs who don’t get overexcited by food
Every dog has a different idea about what relaxes them, so try each approach and see what works best. Notice any changes in the stiffness or looseness of your dog’s body movement, the tension in their face and ears, and whether they persist in demand behaviors like jumping or barking. You can extend the relaxing part of the exercise as much time as you like, as long as the dog doesn’t get fidgety or start making poor choices. Remember that this is a structured activity, so it’s important to tell the dog when it’s over.
Training walks and outings can take longer, as it naturally takes more time to walk around a park or the neighborhood. Try to break up the way you spend that time, alternating between active training and calming time. Say there’s a dog across the street and your dog wants to react; you spend the necessary few minutes doing pattern games (or whatever other methods you are working on to reduce reactivity), then walk slowly off in a way that allows the dog to sniff and decompress. When possible, let the dog lead you away, instead of you pulling them along.
What about treats?
You may not actually need food rewards for this. Calming is a good feeling by itself, and it can be a reinforcement. Also, many dogs get very excited by food, which goes against the calm behavior we wanted–and it certainly doesn’t help with dogs who demand food insistently. Use food treats during the more active work, but in the relaxation exercises you need to really look at whether your dog can take food calmly. For example if you scatter kibble in the grass, does your dog sniff for them in a curious and casual manner, or do they act frantic about it? If your dog lies down, can they gently take a treat that you put in front of their nose, or do they jump up? For food maniacs, try using petting and soft-voiced praise as reinforcement instead.
Flipping the switch
When you have gotten into a steady pattern of training followed by relaxation exercises, you can start adding a “relax” cue when you begin that phase. Like all cues, it can be any word or hand sign that suits you, and it won’t mean anything to the dog at first. Be very consistent and clear with the cue, and only use it when you are beginning the calming step, and the dog will learn what it means through repetition. Eventually you will be able to help them relax by giving the cue in other non-training circumstances!
Typically when we tell a dog “settle settle!” or “quit it!” we are asking them to stop hassling us. But how is the dog supposed to know what to do with themselves? If I quit barking, how about I steal your shoe and run around with it, is that better? Giving them specific relaxation opportunities, and associating a cue with those behaviors, gives the dog a clear idea of what you would like them to do instead. It allows them to make better choices. By adding this on to more stimulating or challenging training exercises, we help them de-stress from that work, rather than feeling amped up and looking for an outlet for those feelings.
To recap: plan to do several very short training activities each day. With each one, take a couple minutes to set the dog up for success, then train for a few minutes, then do a little planned calming time–as simple as a slow sniffy walk or a shoulder massage. Finally give an “all done” cue, and put everything away. You don’t have to do this process with all dogs, all the time; this is for those of us whose dogs have high drive, anxiety, or puppyish energy. Let’s give them an off switch that works!
